Helsinki, Finland

The ferry ride from Tallinn to Helsinki was a real adventure! Rough seas had us swaying from side to side--our group especially felt it because we were on the top floor with great views (and the bar!) So when we arrived in Helsinki and it was lightly raining, none of us were complaining--I think we were all happy to be on solid ground again! We were met at the terminal by our comfortable tour bus and began an 'Etelka-guided' tour of Helsinki's sights outside the city.

Our first stop was the 'Church in the Rock,' This amazing church has been created by carving out solid granite! I was stunned when I saw it. The walls are natural rock and the ceiling is made of coiled copper strands. While it's large and open, it still has a peaceful quality.

Next, we re-boarded the bus and drove to a sculpture in a lush, tree-filled park called 'Love of Music.' Etelka explained that this is a monument to Finland's greatest composer, Jean Sibelius. There are over 600 organ pipes! After the work was completed, the artist was 'persuaded' to add a second sculpture including the composer's face for those who thought the work too abstract.

   We had some time to wander around. The sculpture is built on rocks and they were wet with rain, so it was a bit slippery.

   Dawn and I discovered that you can hear the wind 'playing music' when you listen at the pipes.

   Our last stop before heading into central Helsinki was the Seurasaari Open-Air Folk Museum. This is a collection of historic buildings brought together to create a small settlement. On clear days, the buildings are open and employees are dressed in period costumes.

Because of the weather, the place was empty and we had it all to ourselves. It was really magical to wander down the paths, crunching on dry leaves and watching red squirrels scurrying all over. Our group seemed to scatter, perhaps wanting to individually experience this place in its quiet forest setting.

Even these birds, squirrels, and 'fauna' were colorful and unique. Throughout the area, we saw only two of these unusual red mushrooms.

After our 'walk in the woods', we drove into central Helsinki. Our hotel was in an ideal location for exploring the city. We settled into our rooms, then set off down the street together to celebrate our first night in Helsinki. Etelka had given us an assignment to learn about our group buddy and we all had a chance to 'tell tales' about each other at dinner.

Our second day in Helsinki - a walking tour of the city

Our local guide met us at the hotel for our walking tour of Helsinki's central area. First stop was the old Market Hall. She explained that it dates from 1889, and is still full of vendors selling fruits, vegetables, and many unusual foods not readily seen in the U.S. Reindeer kabobs? Bear jerky?

Reindeer hide - certainly something we don't have in California.

Sea urchins for sale, plus many varieties of salmon.

There were also mounds of wild cranberries for sale.

Musicians were also at the outdoor market, playing for 'tips.'

We learned that this fountain has become the symbol of Helsinki city, considered the 'Daughter of the Baltic.' Each year university students celebrate Vappu (a kind of May Day carnival) by decorating the statue with a cap and gown. It has become a big city event.

Our walk took us past this building, designed by Alvar Aalto, a celebrated Finnish architect. Built in 1960 and remarkably contemporary, the white facade on this building is all Carrera marble from Italy.

Next, we came to Uspenski Cathedral. Built in mid 1860s, this is a beautiful building, inside and out. The large dome represents 'the sacred heart of Jesus' while the smaller domes represent the twelve apostles.

Our walk took us over the Bridge of Love, where couples vow their commitment
to one another by adding a lock to the wall and then throwing away the key. Quite romantic! We then headed down this colorful street to the bakery, past the large yellow home where the city's Mayor lives.

   These fluffy balls in the basket are made of meringue and chocolate, just one of many rather irresistible pastries to choose from.

What's this? The doors to the stalls in the women's restroom!

Dawn and I managed to fit in a visit to the gift shop next door. A popular souvenir sold in Helsinki is a trivet made from juniper wood. It's easy to pack and, I now know, has a fragrant smell when used to hold a hot pot.

The Lutheran Cathedral sits up high and is easily visible from around the city.

We had a little workout going up the steps and were a bit disappointed when we were unable to enter due to services being held. Undeterred, our guide entertained us outside with details of its history.

Esplanade Park lies between two of Helsinki's main boulevards, and is filled with statues and people taking a break from shopping.

Stockmann's is Finland's premier department store and it's huge. A few of our group decided to have lunch there and we had to choose between three restaurants. The statue in the foreground is the 'Three Blacksmiths' from the 1930s, which we were told celebrates labor and the strong character of the Finnish people.

After our walk through Helsinki, we had the rest of the day free. While there were many options, Dawn and I had heard the word 'sauna'. We'd learned from our guide how popular they are in Finland (where they originated). It turned out that our hotel had a 'sauna suite' that we could reserve, so we spent several hours switching between the heated room, where water is ladled onto hot coals, over to invigorating cold showers. We were 'glowing' by the time we finished! It was such a relaxing experience that I've been looking for spas with saunas ever since returning to the U.S.

Time to travel to St. Petersburg

We're on our way again, this time by train. Helsinki's train station is impressive! It was designed in 1914 by Eliel Saarinen, another famous Finnish architect.

On the three-hour ride to St. Petersburg, we went through 'customs'. Russian officials came through the train and inspected our passports and visas. Etelka had prepped us for this so it was essentially stress-free. We were able to exchange money, and Etelka, who's fluent in Russian, gave us a quick language lesson. My name, Jane, looks like this in Russian - Джейн. I learned to read a few words that came in handy - 'coffee house', 'restaurant', 'entrance', and 'exit', and she taught us how to say 'thank you' and 'excuse me'. As I continually bumped into people while rubbernecking, I became fluent in 'excuse me'.

Next stop, St. Petersburg, Russia!